サーフィンスクールで短期上達

ビラボンＸＸＬでチャンピオンとなったグレッグ・ロングのインタビュー映像。チューブライドで最も重要なのはバレルの大きさです。特に世界トップレベルの大会になると、バレルの大きさで点数が大きく変わってきます。バレルが小さければ、いくらロングチューブを抜けても１０点満点は出ません。

グレッグはこのインタビューの中で、ノーグラブ（レールを掴まないこと）について語っているのですが．．．

今日もポチッと応援クリックお願いいたします。
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Puerto is so incredibly special that it’s one of the few places in the world where you can have a swell that travels thousands upon thousands of miles before it gets there and can still be, you know, 25 foot or bigger. Most places, you need that local storm needs to be a ton of swell over there; it will take nothing and it will be huge. So every time you paddle out in the dark, you never know what it’s actually going to be like.

So sun comes up and, you know, we kind of see where the main peaks, you know, main energy the swell is focusing on the beach. You go and you sit there and then it just becomes patience and skill. And that’s just the 3 hours, you know, back and forth, you know, dodging, you know, big closeouts, trying to find the corners, just missing. I am trying not to get frustrated and – and staying positive that eventually it’s going to come to you. And eventually they do.

This particular set, you could see had, you know, some definitions to it. And I remember just paddling as hard as I could down the beach to catch up to where, you know, these peaks were coming. And Nick Lamb was already down there. He rode the wave right before mine which was actually bigger. I remember just seeing what he was paddling into, you know, just trying to get over to where he was. So, I was able to catch up and actually get a little bit deeper than he was sitting and – and line mine up right after.

I put my head down and, you know, paddling to this thing and – and grabbed my rail off the bottom, hit these three weird ribs, and they completely threw me off balance and I ended up going too high up the face in order to redirect after completely let go off my rail and, you know, twist my body to get my momentum going back down again.

The second I was in the barrel, you know, people will say, oh he had this amazing no grab rail the whole way. Far from the truth; the second that I was back and had a line, I grabbed the whole of that damn thing and I was holding on for dear life. And I remember inside, you know, one second the foam ball lifted me up, you know, shot me forward, and then I just had that clean line out of it and came out with this big. It was one of those that happen so fast so out of control that, you know, by the end, you know, I was almost laughing at myself just how lucky I was to make it.



以上は動画全体の書き起こしです。グレッグはたくさん話していますが、こうやって文章にして読んでみると意外なほど内容が空っぽで纏まりもない。巨大なバレルを抜けるためのテクニックやメンタルについて深く語っているのかと思いきや、ぜんぜんそうじゃない。肩すかしをくらいましたね。